Moretti Photography Expeditions
Expeditions

Noel Kempff Blackwater Expedition

Twelve days on the blackwater rivers of northern Noel Kempff — macaws, river mammals, and some of the most biodiverse forest in the Amazon basin.

Noel Kempff Blackwater Expedition

This is a river-based wildlife photography expedition into one of the most intact ecosystems in the Western Hemisphere. Our journey moves from the transitional forests of the Bajo Paraguá into the northern blackwater corridors of Noel Kempff Mercado National Park, before returning through the landscapes of the Chiquitania.

The expedition is guided by former park rangers with decades of experience navigating these rivers and forests, providing rare insight into one of Bolivia’s least visited protected areas.

We work broad river systems, sandbar edges, forested bends, and quieter secondary channels — positioning for light, behavior, and habitat context rather than fixed sightseeing stops.

The structure is intentional. The daily rhythm is adaptive.

Wildlife movement, river levels, and light direction determine our positioning. If a corridor proves active, we return. If mist builds in a particular bend, we adjust.

Unlike traditional bird photography workshops built around feeders and controlled perches, this expedition explores the wild river systems of Noel Kempff Mercado National Park in search of birds and wildlife in their natural habitat. The emphasis is on field exploration and natural encounters rather than staged photography.

Why Noel Kempff Mercado

Bolivia consistently ranks among the most biodiverse countries in the Western Hemisphere. Noel Kempff protects vast tracts of intact Amazonian forest intersected by major river systems where tourism pressure remains minimal.

Within the park’s approximately 1.5 million hectares (5,885 square miles) — slightly larger than the U.S. state of Connecticut — are found over 620 species of birds (including nine species of macaw and 20 species of parrot), 130 species of mammals, 74 species of reptiles and more than 60 species of amphibians (mainly frogs and toads).

Unlike high-traffic destinations, wildlife here is not conditioned to boats arriving on schedule. Behavior feels natural, encounters feel earned.

Ecological Progression

The expedition follows a structured ecological progression through distinct habitats. Confirmed participants receive a more detailed description of locations to assist with travel planning and preparation.

Transitional Forest & Escarpment Edge

Chiquitano dry forest and granite outcrops create a markedly different ecological tone from the river corridors to the north. Here we may encounter:

Blue-and-yellow Macaw • Red-and-green Macaw • Toco Toucan • Chaco Chachalaca • Plush-crested Jay • White Woodpecker • Southern Lapwing (open savanna edges) • Variable raptors using thermal lift along granite formations

Early morning escarpment light provides layered compositions and habitat context before we transition fully into river systems.

Entry to the Blackwater Systems

Overland travel gives way to aluminum expedition boats. (Each boat accommodates a maximum of four persons — two guests, an expedition team member, and the pilot.) As we enter the northern corridors of Noel Kempff, the ecosystem shifts to broad blackwater rivers with sandbars, exposed driftwood, and flooded forest edges. Typical subjects in this zone include:

Orinoco Goose (on sandbars and river margins) • Capped Heron • Cocoi Heron • Black Skimmer • Large-billed Tern • Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers • Greater Ani • Roadside Hawk • Snail Kite

Macaws frequently cross river channels at first light, offering flight opportunities against mist and open water.

Escarpment Context — Los Torres Foray

A focused excursion toward the Huanchaca escarpment — at 42,000 hectares, the meseta is one of the largest protected tracts of undisturbed cerrado in the world — introduces structural habitat contrast. Depending on season and movement patterns, possibilities include:

Bat Falcon • Swallow-tailed Kite • Various forest edge tanagers • Mixed flocks along transitional forest margins

This segment emphasizes landscape context and raptor movement rather than brute distance hiking.

Upper River & Forested Channels

As we reposition into narrower, quieter corridors, mammal activity becomes more likely along shaded banks and secondary inlets. Potential encounters include:

Capybara • Black-capped Squirrel Monkey • Brown Capuchin • Giant Otter (occasionally in family groups) • Caiman along shaded banks

Birdlife intensifies in these tighter channels:

Agami Heron (less common, but habitat appropriate) • Sunbittern • Sungrebe • Woodcreepers • Puffbirds • Mixed canopy flocks

Repeated dawn access increases the chance of behavior rather than static portraits.

Secondary Bends & Quiet Water

We dedicate time to slower-moving sections where patience is rewarded. Here we look for:

Sandbar nesting activity • Low-angle skimmer passes • Kingfisher hunting sequences • Raptors working thermals mid-morning • Macaw clay lick or roosting movements (if conditions align)

Mammal sightings are opportunistic but possible along less-traveled stretches.

Deliberate Return South

Buffer time is preserved for wildlife surges, weather flexibility, and safe logistics as we return to Santa Cruz, through the Chiquitania.

Exact camp positioning and daily movement adapt to conditions. The structure remains; the details remain responsive.

Wildlife sightings are never guaranteed. This expedition prioritizes habitat depth and repeated field positioning over fixed itineraries.

Accommodations & Field Infrastructure

Comfort evolves with the landscape…

During the overland segments through the Chiquitania, we stay in comfortable, locally operated hotels with private baths. Whenever possible, we secure single-occupancy rooms for each guest. Due to the informal nature of regional lodging, exact room configurations cannot be guaranteed, but our standard is private accommodations whenever available. As we move north toward the river corridor, infrastructure becomes simpler. Comfort remains functional, but the environment becomes more remote.

River bases utilize a combination of simple park cabins and structured expedition tents with integrated mosquito protection.

Each photographer is offered a waterproof private expedition basecamp tent, selected for durability in humid conditions and stand-up comfort for dressing and gear organization. Tents are sized to accommodate expedition cots when requested and provide sufficient space for essential overnight gear.

For couples/friends traveling together, a larger basecamp tent configuration is available.

Guests may instead elect to stay in the lodges at each camp which the government park authority (SERNAP) are currently renovating. (I’m personally donating mattresses for each lodge.)

Power for charging camera equipment is provided through generator support coordinated with park facilities. Satellite communication is carried for safety and logistical coordination.

Conditions are rustic, organized, and purpose-built for extended time in the field.

A durable expedition sleeping pad is provided. Guests are welcome to bring their preferred sleep system. Lightweight expedition cots are available as an optional comfort upgrade.

Who This Expedition Is For…

This program is designed for photographers who:

  • Travel with 400–600mm lenses
  • Are comfortable shooting from small boats in dynamic conditions
  • Value patience, repetition, and observation
  • Prefer wild ecosystems over curated wildlife corridors
  • Understand that compelling wildlife photography requires adaptability and field awareness

This expedition is not suited for travelers seeking climate-controlled lodges, predictable wildlife encounters, or fixed sightseeing schedules.

Cultural Highlight

April 2028 departures

Every two years, the Chiquitania missions host the Festival Internacional de Música Renacentista y Barroca Americana “Misiones de Chiquitos”, one of South America’s most distinctive cultural events. Musicians from Bolivia and around the world perform sacred and historical works inside the Jesuit mission churches.

Depending on exact 2028 travel dates, our route may pass through several mission towns — including San José de Chiquitos, San Miguel de Velasco and San Ignacio de Velasco — while festival activities are taking place.

While attendance at specific concerts cannot be guaranteed, guests traveling during festival years may have the opportunity to experience the missions during this remarkable celebration of music and heritage.

More Expedition information

Also see our Noel Kempff Mercado Expedition Information page.

Minimum Enrollment

This expedition operates with a minimum of three confirmed participants. If minimum enrollment is not reached, participants may transfer to a future departure, or upgrade to a private expedition at adjusted pricing..

What’s Not Included

Airfare to and from Bolivia • Gateway hotel nights on arrival and departure • Alcoholic beverages • Travel insurance (required) • Tips for local guides and drivers • Optional cot upgrade

Logistics & Support

Maximum four photographers • Three expedition boats (two for a private couple tour), including dedicated gear/supply support • Former Noel Kempff park ranger pilots • Generator-supported battery charging • Satellite communication for safety • Private expedition tent available for each guest • All meals from Day 1 through Day 12 • Regional lodge nights during overland segments, with single occupancy, when available • Park authority coordination and local permits • Pre-departure field briefing and gear consultation

Camps are functional, not luxurious. Humidity, insects, and early starts are part of the ecosystem.

Read next